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CANE ROSSO

27 Aug

It’s the pizza joint I have been dreading to review for over a year now. Ever since this place was on that food show it has simply blown up in popularity. Magazines and websites are all claiming it’s the best pizza in Dallas. This pizza might literally kill me – it’s that awesome-y.

As you know, I full-on HATE bandwagons. If “everybody” likes it, chances are… I don’t.

But just look at that pie. It’s quite beautiful really. I mean if you were to paint a picture of what a gorgeous pizza looks like – that could be it exactly. But looks could be deceiving. All sizzle…no steak if you catch my drift.

So? How’s it taste dummy?

The owner of Cane Rosso, Jay Jerrier really has quite the success story and I have mad respect for him for pulling this off. The guy just loves pizza. I know…I know… you love pizza…but you ain’t got the kinda love this guy has. Seriously. Go read about him here.

So I took my time and let some of the shine wear off before trying Cane Rosso. The building was filled with happy faces and every employee I spoke to had a great attitude. I see that giant pizza oven and I am ready. I am hoping for the best and expecting the worst.

I am looking at the menu and I notice they don’t let you build-your-own pizza. You choose from a list of “named” pies they offer that are topped with various things. At first glance I don’t much care for this. I mean what if I don’t like your version of what you “think” I might like. But my thought stops there.

It is then that I remind myself for the first time that THIS ISN’T YOUR NORMAL PIZZA JOINT.

I place my order and in a handful of minutes I get my pie. It’s an “ELLA” by their menu: Tomato, Mozzarella, Basil, and Hot Soppressata. It looks heavenly.

And the taste is wonderful. But again…. this isn’t your normal pizza joint. I hate to use the word ARTISAN because it seems to be co-opted by the corporate world to make me think their product is better than it actually is.

Papa Jimmy’s, Pizza House, and all those other chains are pizza. This is more like PIZZA-CRAFT. It’s artisanal. It’s the work of a master pizza craftsman. It’s just very very good. It’s like a delicate flower. It is not built but rather cultivated from the fresh and simple ingredients involved. It’s refined. It will take you a few minutes to evolve and understand that in a certain kind of way – you are eating art.

You have probably lived your whole life on chain pizza so you will need to briefly retrain your brain to accept what pizza can be. Cane Rosso is nothing like a chain. So please leave your dreams of stringy-gooey-cheese and crispy,cracklin’, crunchy-crusts behind.

This crust is very tender and chewy. The sauce very light as is the basil and cheese. The hands down superstar of this pizza is the Hot Soppressatta. Think pepperoni…but better. As light and chewy as it is, I can see it getting tough if left out for a while or if you are driving this pie home. Which is why it’s imperative that you eat it there. In person. With friends and a great beer.

The JFC gang devoured this pie in minutes. Most were overwhelmed at how good it was. Others thought it too salty.

I gotta say I was impressed. Just the Soppressatta alone is a stand out for me. It’s spicy and absolutely perfect here. I have been in love with Soppressatta ever since I stumbled on to it at Jimmy’s a while back.

Again I have to stress, this isn’t bar pizza. This isn’t delivery pizza. This isn’t ketchup on cardboard from a corporate culinary clown. This is different. For some that might be off-putting. I myself couldn’t eat Cane Rosso every day. It’s not the kind of pizza I could be happy with just eating cold as leftovers the next day.

This is a special type of pizza that has to be taken as it is. Simple. Elegant. Once you have it you will understand why they choose the toppings for you. They have taken great care to develop the pies and the toppings to go along with. It would be criminal to throw some pineapple or other goofy topping on this artistry. They have taken the guess-work out of it. They know what goes together. So how about a little trust…eh?

I will say it’s NOT the best pizza in Dallas. Because it’s not pizza. It’s Neapolitan Pizza. Completely different animal in my eyes. It’s like asking you to compare a steakhouse filet to a burger from Mickey D’s. It’s just not even the same ballpark. Hell it’s not even the same game.

It is, however, one of the best pies I have ever had.

 

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